
What to Do When Your Leash Breaks
If you surf long enough, it's probably going to happen.
One day you'll wipe out, reach for your board, and realize it isn't there.
Usually, you don't even have to look.
As the wave tumbles your board, you'll feel the leash stretching tight around your ankle as the water pulls against it. Then, in an instant, there's an unmistakable release.
The tension is gone.
Your board is gone.
The first time you feel it, your mind can immediately start racing.
I've had it happen in waist-high surf and in much bigger waves. Every situation has been different, but one lesson has stayed with me every single time.
Don't panic.
That may sound simple, but panic can be your biggest enemy. When your mind takes over, your breathing gets faster, your heart rate climbs, and suddenly you're burning through energy you may desperately need.
The first thing to do is slow down.
Take a breath.
Look around.
Figure out where you are before you decide what to do next.
On a smaller day, it's usually straightforward. Swim toward shore. If you're tired, don't fight the ocean unnecessarily. Sometimes floating on your back and conserving energy while the waves push you toward shore is the smarter choice than sprinting through the water.
Bigger surf is different.
One lesson I've learned is to always leave something in the tank.
There have been sessions where I've surfed for six hours and eventually caught myself thinking, If my leash broke right now, I'm so exhausted I don't know how I'd swim in.
The moment you have that thought, it's probably time to head to the beach.
Your board isn't just for catching waves. It's your flotation device. If you lose it, you're relying entirely on your own swimming ability and the energy you have left.
I learned another lesson the hard way.
I was surfing a North Shore break that was about four feet Hawaiian, but it was barreling from top to bottom and absolutely firing. My leash snapped, and suddenly I found myself in the impact zone.
Every time I tried to swim out of it, another wave pulled me right back into the same spot.
That's when I made my biggest mistake.
I let my mind panic.
I started breathing too fast, swallowed water, and couldn't think clearly. I wasn't in a good place mentally.
Finally, I did something I wish more surfers realized is okay.
I asked another surfer for help.
Without hesitation, he stayed with me, helped me get safely to shore, and even swam out afterward to retrieve my board.
I'll never forget that.
Surfing is often seen as an individual sport, but moments like that remind you it's also a community.
Sometimes the smartest thing you can do is ask for help.
There's no pride.
No ego.
No judgment.
Just one surfer helping another get home safely.
If your leash ever breaks, remember this:
Stay calm.
Take a breath.
Think before you react.
Know your limits.
And if you need help, don't be afraid to ask.
The wave you don't catch is never as important as making it back to shore.
SSC Team


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