Why One Surfboard Isn't Enough (Eventually)

One of the biggest mistakes I see new surfers make is believing they need a garage full of surfboards before they can become better surfers.

You don't.

In fact, when you're first starting out, one board is exactly what you need.

Whether it's a Costco foam board, a used longboard from a garage sale, Facebook Marketplace, or a secondhand board from your local surf shop, the goal is simple—get in the water and surf.

One piece of advice I always give beginners is this:

For most people, don't buy a brand-new surfboard.

You're going to ding it. You'll drag it across parking lots, bump it into your car, and eventually damage it. That's simply part of learning. Save your money until you know what kind of surfer you want to become.

More importantly, surf the same board over and over again. Learn what it does well. Learn where it struggles. One board will teach you far more than constantly switching between different shapes.

The Day One Board Stops Being Enough

As your surfing improves, something interesting begins to happen.

The board that feels amazing on waist-high waves suddenly feels slow when the surf gets overhead.

Then, on the next small day, your high-performance shortboard feels like it's stuck in the water.

Nothing is wrong with either board.

They're simply being asked to do jobs they weren't designed to do.

That's when your quiver begins to grow—not because surfers like buying boards, but because different waves demand different equipment.

The Best Advice I Ever Received

Years ago, I had the opportunity to talk with a very well-known surfboard shaper.

He gave me one simple piece of advice that has stayed with me ever since.

"Try to keep about four inches between the lengths of your boards."

It wasn't meant to be a strict rule.

Just a guideline so that every board had a clear purpose instead of overlapping with the next one.

Looking back, that advice has served me well.

My Quiver

Every surfer's quiver will be different, but this is what has worked for me over the years.

• Longboard for knee-high days and weak surf.

• 5'8" fish for waist-high to shoulder-high waves.

• 6'2" shortboard for shoulder-high to just under double overhead.

• 6'6" step-up for double overhead surf.

• When I was younger, I also owned a 7'2" and a 7'8" for triple-overhead days and larger.

If I'm honest, the smaller boards probably saw ten times more water than the bigger ones.

Most of us simply spend far more time surfing average waves than giant ones.

Volume Isn't Everything

Today, one of the first numbers surfers look at is volume.

I understand why.

It's an incredibly useful measurement.

Years ago, though, volume wasn't really part of the conversation. We bought boards based on their dimensions, rails, rocker, outlines, and tail shapes. Maybe that's just nostalgia talking, but I think it forced us to think a little more about why a board worked instead of simply chasing a number.

That said, having more information is usually a good thing. Volume is another tool that helps surfers make better decisions. It just isn't the whole story.

My Small Wave Board

As I write this, I'm about 6'1" and 190 pounds.

My small-wave board is a 5'8" fish with a flatter rocker, fuller rails, a straighter outline, a wide swallow tail, and about 36.5 liters of volume.

For me, it's perfect from about knee-high up to shoulder-high, especially when the waves are a little weaker.

The extra volume makes paddling easier.

The flatter rocker and straighter outline generate speed with very little effort.

The fuller rails are forgiving, carrying speed through turns without demanding perfect technique.

The swallow tail removes some surface area from the tail, helping the board maintain speed while still releasing smoothly through turns.

Overall, it's simply a fun board to surf. If the waves are small and playful, it's hard to beat.

If I Could Only Keep One Board

If someone was to ask me which board I'd keep if I could only have one.

For me, the answer is my 6'2" shortboard.

Living in Hawaiʻi, it simply covers the widest range of conditions that I actually surf. From shoulder-high waves all the way to just under double overhead, it's the board I reach for most often.

Compared to my fish, it's narrower, carries about 33.5 liters of volume, has noticeably more rocker, more tapered rails, and either a rounded pin or thumb tail.

Every one of those design choices serves the same purpose.

Control.

The narrower outline transitions from rail to rail more quickly.

The added rocker allows the board to fit steeper sections of the wave while naturally slowing it compared to flatter boards.

The tapered rails engage the face of the wave more positively, allowing me to place the board exactly where I want it.

The rounded pin (or thumb tail) creates more hold in the water, making it an excellent choice for powerful, barreling waves and tight top-to-bottom surfing.

In small surf you're usually trying to create speed.

In powerful surf you're trying to control it.

That's one of the biggest differences between these two boards.

My fish is still one of the most enjoyable boards I own, but if I could only keep one board, I'd choose the 6'2". It simply lets me surf the widest range of conditions I encounter throughout the year here in Hawaiʻi.

Bigger Waves Require Bigger Tools

Once the surf reaches double overhead, I move to my 6'6" step-up.

The philosophy doesn't really change.

It's simply a larger version of my shortboard.

The extra length helps me paddle faster, get into waves earlier, and match the speed of bigger swells.

At that size, getting into the wave becomes just as important as what you do once you're standing.

There Is No Perfect Quiver

This is where surfboards become incredibly personal.

One surfer may love a squash tail.

Another won't ride anything but a rounded pin.

Some people surf punchy beach breaks.

Others spend their lives surfing long point breaks or reef breaks.

Every wave asks different questions, and every surfer answers them a little differently.

As you continue surfing, you'll discover that even small changes in rocker, rails, outlines, tails, fins, and volume can completely change how a board feels beneath your feet.

That's part of what makes surfing so addictive.

There is always something new to learn, another board to try, and another wave to figure out.

When I first started surfing, I wanted to find a perfect surfboard.

After years in the water, I've realized that was the wrong question.

The real goal isn't finding the perfect board.

It's finding your perfect board.

The one that matches the waves you surf.

The way you like to turn.

The speed you enjoy.

The feeling you're chasing every time you paddle out.

That's one of the reasons I chose the name Sole Surf Company.

People often ask what "Sole" means.

To me, it isn't about saying there's only one way to surf.

It's the opposite.

Every surfer has their own journey.

Their own favorite waves.

Their own favorite boards.

Their own style.

Their own answer.

No two quivers are exactly alike because no two surfers are exactly alike.

That's one of the things I love most about surfing.

Your boards slowly become a reflection of your experiences, the waves you've surfed, and the surfer you've become.

Mine certainly have.

Final Thoughts

The point of this article isn't to convince you to buy four or five surfboards.

If you're just starting out, one board is enough.

If you mostly surf waist-high to head-high waves, two boards will probably cover almost everything you'll ever surf.

As your abilities improve and you begin surfing a wider variety of conditions, your quiver will naturally grow. Not because someone told you it should, but because you'll eventually paddle out, look at the waves and think,

"Today's not really a fish day."

Or...

"I wish I had brought my step-up."

Eventually, you'll stop asking which board is the best.

You'll start asking which board is right for today.

And that's when you'll realize your quiver isn't just a collection of surfboards.

It's the story of your surfing journey.

SSC Team