The Lineup Journal

How to Beat the Crowd

"Man... where did all these people come from?" If you've surfed for any length of time, you've probably asked yourself that question. Crowded lineups aren't new. They've always been part of surfing...

Surfing and the Crowd in Hawaiʻi

I have been playing in the ocean around the Hawaiian Islands since I was born. I started bodyboarding as a little kid, began surfing as a teenager, and at 45 years old, I am still paddling out, tak...

The Starting Line Isn't the Same for Every Surfer

There's a saying you've probably heard before: "Comparison is the thief of joy." I think there's a lot of truth in that. But after years of surfing, I've come to believe there's another reason comp...

Why One Surfboard Isn't Enough (Eventually)

One of the biggest mistakes I see new surfers make is believing they need a garage full of surfboards before they can become better surfers. You don't. In fact, when you're first starting out, one ...

From an Idea to Your Door: How a Sole Surf Company Shirt Is Made

When most people order a T-shirt online, they never stop to think about everything that happened before it arrived at their doorstep. At Sole Surf Company, every design begins as nothing more than ...

When the Waves Aren't Good

Every surfer has been there. You wake up early, check the forecast, study the buoys, and convince yourself today is going to be one of those special sessions. The swell looked promising. The wind w...

How to Get Your First Barrel

There's something special about getting your first barrel. It usually isn't a long, deep tube that lasts several seconds. More often than not, it's only half a second—maybe a full second—before you...

The Rule of Three: Why Great Surf Sessions Are So Rare

If you've ever worked in construction, you've probably heard this saying: You can only have two of these three things: Good Cheap Fast Need it fast and cheap? The work probably won't be good. Nee...

Nobody Taught Me How to Surf

Nobody taught me how to surf. I never took a lesson. Nobody explained surf etiquette, how to read a lineup, or where to sit in the water. It all started when a friend invited me to go surfing with ...

What to Do When Your Leash Breaks

If you surf long enough, it's probably going to happen. One day you'll wipe out, reach for your board, and realize it isn't there. Usually, you don't even have to look. As the wave tumbles your boa...